Meet Alice Kawahatsu

Alice Kawahatsu is truly a local guide with the kind of intimate knowledge of a neighborhood that comes from living in a community for many years. A third generation Japanese American who was born and raised in San Francisco, for the past three decades she has called Japantown home and is an active member of the community. Alice volunteers at the Japanese Cultural and Community Center of Northern California and the Konko Church of San Francisco, where her husband has served as the minister for more than 30 years. She also enjoys passing down the culinary lessons she has learned from J-town elders to younger generations and Japantown visitors as lead guide for our Japantown Food Tour.

1. What led you to guiding tours of Japantown for Edible Excursions?

When my son started high school I began to lead informal tours of Japantown for parents. We started out just going for coffee and tea and that branched out into showing newcomers to the neighborhood other interesting food places in the community, including restaurants and grocery stores. One of the moms had taken a North Berkeley Food Tour with Lisa and she thought it would be great to get us together to talk.  When I met Lisa—this was about eight years ago now—her youngest was still in a stroller.  I took her around to all my favorite places and introduced her to folks in the community.  Along the way I talked with her about the history and culture of the area and all that it has gone through, its challenges and accomplishments. That was the beginning of a longer conversation that lead to the creation of the Japantown Food Tour. *

2. Do you have a job outside of guiding?

I have a background in industrial design, though currently I work at a retail store twice a week. The job is quite physical (climbing ladders, moving boxes) so it keeps me in shape! 

3. What kind of civic and community work do you do?

I serve on the board of directors at my church, which is very active in fundraising and works closely with many local community organizations.  When I’m not assisting at services, I’m organizing the bake sale at our bazaar or serving curry at the church yard sale. We also have a wonderful New Year’s service which includes making mochi (sweet, chewy rice cakes ) to celebrate the new year. We serve ozone soup (a traditional soup with mochi) to about 150 people on New Year’s morning at church. Everyone helps prepare the mochi and serves the soup.  It’s a great way of passing on this tradition and ringing in the New Year together.

 I also serve on the board of directors for the Japantown Task Force, a non-profit community organization that supports the neighborhood’s economic development, planning, and preservation.  We work together to ensure that Japantown continues to thrive as a culturally-rich and historically-vibrant place for all to enjoy.  One of our largest projects is working on getting the Peace Plaza renovated.  I’m frequently at City Hall council meetings speaking on behalf of Japantown to garner support for this effort. 

And, If you attend any one of the many events held at the Peace Plaza, (such as the Cherry Blossom Festival, Nihonmachi Street Fair, Japan Day Festival, Osaka Matsuri Festival, and Aki Matsuri Fall Festival), you will find me at the visitors’ kiosk. It’s a great way to welcome folks to these festivals and a terrific opportunity for people to learn about the community, its history, and traditional arts, crafts, and music. And, of course, food. I help direct them to great places to eat.

Finally, our community center has an annual food fundraiser called Tabemasho.  Each year I volunteer to make a traditional dish with other community members.  In the past we’ve made chirashi sushi (mixed Japanese rice with toppings such as raw fish, eggs, vegetables, and shiso). We also have a curry cook-off fundraiser.  In September, my husband and I entered and we earned first place in the “People’s Choice” award!  Our dish was made with organic chicken, chicken sausage, vegetables, pineapple, and apples from our yard. Supporting a good cause is my idea of fun. My community is my extended family. I need only go out my door and I’m blessed to have great conversations with my neighbors, friends, church members, and community leaders.  In a city it’s great to be able to feel so connected in this way. 

4. What kind of home cook are you?

I learned most of my cooking from the obachans (grandmas at my church) and my aunt who was from Osaka, Japan. I also learned a lot from my husband who is a much better cook than me. Since he is from Japan, he has taught me how to get that umami flavor just right in miso soup and broths.

When my adult children visit, we shop together and then make hot pot dishes like shabu-shabu or sukiyaki. 

5. Where do you like to shop for food?

I buy Japanese ingredients at my favorite store, the Super Mira Market in Japantown. I also go to the Civic Center farmers market (Heart of the City Market), and Rainbow Grocery, the worker-owned food cooperative. I shop at ChaTo in Japantown for hojicha tea, a roasted Japanese green tea, that I make at home each evening.

6. What are your go-to comfort foods?

My husband and I have to have rice every day.  Most days, I cook white rice with a little black rice, which turns purple when cooked.  After visiting Okinawa in Japan recently, I’ve become obsessed with purple potatoes.  They are really good for you and if you boil or roast them, they are so sweet, almost like candy.  They are delicious baked in bread or made into mochi!  We try to take a trip to Japan and Hawaii each year and we like to integrate what we discover there into our own home cooking. My favorite secret pleasure is Chocolove xoxo dark chocolate with sea salt.  I also like nashi Asian Pears.  Can you tell I have a sweet tooth? When I want some simple comfort food I usually have a bowl of ochazuke (rice steeped in tea and sprinkled with an ochazuke flavor packet ). I top it off with an umeboshi plum.

 7.  When you eat out where do you like to dine?

I like supporting small businesses within my community.  I love the rich pork tonkotsu broth at Ramen Yamadaya.  I also like the yosenabe (Japanese hot pot) at Sanppo.  I’m a regular at YakiniQ café, where I typically have their sweet potato latte and the yuzu pound cake (homemade by the owner Christy). When I want to have a long brunch with close friends we usually head to Sweet Maples and, before it closed, Black Bark BBQ (here’s hoping they find a new location soon).

 8. What would you like guests to take away from the Japantown tour?

I hope that when guests come on my Japantown tour they learn something new about the community, its history, and what makes this a special place. And I hope they come back with family and friends to eat and to find ingredients to cook Japanese food at home. And, of course, I hope they have a great time on tour and leave with a sense of this unique community that welcomes people with a caring and compassionate heart.

Editor’s Note: Edible Excursions would like to acknowledge the role Japantown fixture Greg Marutani played in the development of the Japantown Tour. Lisa Rogovin was initially contacted by the Japantown Merchants Association about curating a walking food tour of the area, and the organization introduced her to Greg, who—like Alice—is passionate about the community. Greg’s related affiliations include the Japan Society of Northern California, JACL- Japanese American Citizens League, and the Japantown Taskforce. Both Alice and Greg served as invaluable community insiders, who kindly introduced Lisa to merchants in the area and graciously shared their knowledge about Japanese culture and the Japantown community. She is grateful to them both for their generosity.